Відео

Great video and explanation. I had similar symptoms - shutter on acceleration under load (most evident when going uphill) - but without the P0299 code or noticeable sounds. Same Forscan graphs with the dropouts on boost pressure over 20psi I replaced the BPV without improvement. Replacing the turbo wastegate solenoid solved the problem. It seems that either could be the cause so anyone with this issue might consider replacing both units (as he did,) just to save time and effort.

I guess there are no single din radios that would actually fit properly. All of them seem to stick out...

Excellent video and descriptions! Glad you prefer to change your oil earlier for the break in period. I’ve always recommended that for those who plan to keep their vehicle.

Perfect and people spend 20.00 for one blade not 8.00 per insert LOL

Look at the cowl intake. Can you imagine whats in the heater core and A/C evap.

great thanks for the primer on my upcoming first 2024 crv oil change - wasnt aware of the gravel cover and crush washer to be replaced thanks!!

Great video. I have a 1999 WJ 4.7 with a 4” lift. The driveshaft has 2 CV’s. I picked up a double Cordon from a salvage lot. Just have to find the yokes for the axle and transfer case. Then new U-joints. Thanks for sharing and the links.

Good video. I have this exact model and color of CR-V. I've already changed the oil myself before watching this video and it was very easy. I'm hoping you will do a video on changing the rear end fluid for the AWD in the future. I just subscribed and will keep an eye out for it.

Great video. Like you, I always pull the bad switches, relays, whatever apart to see how things work and also to see how they failed. My dad told me decades ago, "you might as well pull the old one apart, it's already broken, it can't get much brokener." Gray Scotch-Brite pads work really well for cleaning contacts like these. Not too coarse. Done this very thing many times over the years. Actually had one switch where the bits of worn copper mixed with the dielectric grease inside the switch into a kind of conductive grease that shorted out the whole switch. I just cleaned out the old grease (never use contact cleaner, just rubbing alcohol on a paper towel), put in new grease and was good to go. Great video. Super useful. Subscribed.

Nice video - very thorough. I'm considering a 2024 CRV and wondering if I can still DIY some basic maintenance. This makes it look pretty straightforward!

❤ thank you

Thanks a lot Vortex Garage, I solved my shuddering issue at high speed with this video. This worked like a charm on my 2016 Ford Escape SE 1.6 FWD.

Crap, more of a dog show

That was great!

On the “above transmission crossing” on the driver side exhaust bank, you used the term “interesting”. In Mercedes’ Speak, interesting = $$$$.

That upper control arm sucked to do. Ratchet straps are your friend!

Where does vortex garage are located?

I replaced the solenoid and the turbo diverter. No noticeable leaks as far as hoses an intercooler. Still sluggish and p0299. Maybe wastegate next?

I'm very interested in the reversing camera capability of this unit, not to mention the web radio station capability which is really useful in Australia when the various regional stations are variable quality. I can see little, to not much out of the rear of my '88 convertible. Hopefully this unit won't be too expensive down under. Great find and video.

Very informative. Thank you

A capital m in the ohms reading is mega ohms.

Was so sad when Pontiac & Toyota stopped making these. Newer models just don't have the whole package like these two did.

Great video. I have an XJ12 with 2 tanks and this is an interesting fix. Thanks for posting.

I've noticed you mention "" We and or Our "" Can I look forward in newer videos that you tell us the different names of the voices speaking to you. It's always nice and uplifting to see a schizophrenic functioning in society.. 👍

Yep, new ignition switch is on the way. I’ll take the old one and clean up the contact points. Keep it as a spare. We have a group of Cherokee’s that trail ride together. Two WJ’s one XJ with one more WJ possibly. It’s good to have some spares between us on the trails. Very helpful video, thanks for posting.

I’m doing injection, hoses, inlet and cam covers. Nice vid.

200k plus? Yes....and ...no. My '04, that I bought new in November of '03 (bone stock by the way) had 217k on it and then a timing chain guide broke, went into the oil pan, then sucked into the pickup tube robbing the motor of oil. Long story short, the motor had to be overhauled. Tough, really tough getting some parts 20 years later. Now just trying to get the coolant crossover tube repaired, which you haven't been able get for years either from Ford or aftermarket. I've been without it since the middle of March. Still waiting to get it back. I sure miss it.

We want to see the silk being put in.Not to break hey , idiot , put it on break

I've noticed you sometimes mention "" We "" Can I look forward in newer videos that you tell us the different names of the voices speaking to you 😁 👍

My 1.6 escapes turbo is very loud, not in a bad way but it never had this much of a whistle or a “psh” when you let off. Could this be the bpv being broken? I hope you can reply!

Trail rated badge is just skid plates for front radiator flimsy and a hd for rear of the transfercase that blots to the cross member and lower unibody rail

Amazing video. Thanks buddy

I have the same problem but me car it’s 2015 te part it’s the same ?

Mine is the opposite, the ujoint is loose so the steering wheel moves but the wheels don't in other words there's play in the steering wheel, this doesn't look too bad to do thanks.

Well done. Good explanation!

I shouted the same as you did! Great job, man!

Those are original rotors . They have a steel ring around them

Music is too freaking loud dude

My 2003 has 4 bolts holding it

The resistors on the little box on top of the intake

I have a ford 555 I have been trying for weeks to get started, is there any type of lock out on the ignition system that could be preventing the injection pump from sending fuel? I cannot get the pump to send fuel to the injectors, even though the pump is clear, bleed out, and spinning. I can't figure it out for the life of me.

Very nice, in depth video 👍

Great video. For the revised purge system, the charcoal canister should have 2 x valves that connect to the top B bank throttle taps. This is a deliberate design to ensure that the valves open and the system purges when the butterfly opens at certain angles and there is vacuum. If your car is equipped with a purge solenoid, trace the wires, I won’t be surprised if it’s connected in parallel with the supplementary air valve near the bank A airbox.

Hi, very good info, thanks. A couple of years ago when I was doing up the engine bay and surrounds, I removed the canister as I was told it was not necessary.. After doing some extra research and some reading of Palms book, I realised that I'd made an unwise decision and accordingly replumbed the canister valve however I placed the Rochester valve on the engine side in lieu of the tank side. To this point in time I have had no problems. Keen to hear your thoughts. KUTGW

Very very informative and settles alot of debates and confirms alot

Sir ,my long 445 tractor steering is turning to the right when I crank it. I just put a new pump on it and have bleed the lines, but still pulls completely to the right. My pump is getting really hot . Do you have any idea were the problems could be. Sincerely

I have a 91 coupe that needs venting help.

2 piece lugnut. Because 1 piece wasn't challenging enough??

I have 6 jags - but my Series 3 is till my favourite saloon with it's pepper pot wheels - the ride, handling, performance, style and power - very hard to beat it. If you get a well cared for low mileage model, you won't regret it, but stay away from the roughies and the xj40's - they will bite your heart and your wallet.

I am kind of glad I am watching this. We have a 16 Focus and we have the opposite the low pressure side is 20 psi lower than desired at idle, and it drops dramatically under load. The high pressure is almost exactly equal to desired to actual when looking at the Autel in live data. While I know that it's probably going to have possibly damaged the high pressure pump, but for now I think we might be able to get it sorted with just the in tank pump. We have already tried the low pressure sensor located just before the high pressure pump, fixed it for a year, but we tried replacing it this time with out any luck, it has 148,700 miles. Then if my family is able to get something different to replace it with may be someone else can have the pleasure of doing the high pressure pump when it decides to fail. Those engine belly pans/covers are junk it missing doesn't surprise me. We have a 14 Escape with the 1.6L with less than 75k. Only thing we have done is inner and out tie rods, even though it only had the left inner that was bad we bought a kit with both sides inner and outer. Tires were the only other expense, due to discount tire having an inexperienced tire tech that tried to break the tire off the bead without allowing the tire to deflate enough. That causes the tire machine to tear a whole in the sidewall. So their free flat repairs were very expensive that day.